A trip into border country

We decided to head home via the very east of Portugal and the border with Spain, sometimes crossing over into Spain. It was a route neither of us had ever done before although we had crossed through between the two countries at some of the points we passed.

It was a great decision and one of the most interesting trips we have taken. I would highly recommend it for people in campervans. There are loads of free aires along the route and spectacular views along with lots of interesting history.

First stop was Ayamonte, literally the first town in Spain when driving east through the Algarve on the motorway. We couldn't have hoped for a better night as although carnival had been in the week they were still celebrating it on the weekend when we arrived.

We immediately went and got tapas and soaked up the atmosphere of Spain and the Spanish people. A people really quite different from the Portuguese despite their closeness. We have both lived in Spain and have some Spanish language, Frank far more than me! 

The town was seized away from Muslim control in 1240 during the reign of Sancho II of Portugal, and it was donated afterwards to the Order of Santiago. Ayamonte became part of the Crown of Castile in 1263.

Fishing and salting of tuna and sardine was already practised in Ayamonte since the Middle Ages. The town suffered due to the War with Portugal and the plague pandemics in the 17th century. In the following century, Catalans and other eastern merchants installed in the town and gave impetus to the local canning and salt industry.

The city, is also famous for his local festivities, the "Fiestas de las Angústias" in honor of their patron "Nuestra Señora de las Angústias". The festivities in the beginning of September are a moment of celebration not only from the Ayamontin population, but also for many Andalucians, and Portuguese. The festivities are graced by the local band, "Banda Ciudad de Ayamonte" and the Portuguese "Banda da Sociedade Filarmónica Progresso e Labor Samouquense" from the Portuguese village of Samouco.

More tapas? Don't mind if we do! One of the things we adore about Spain is the tapas. Did we already say that before? Probably!

Here in Sanlúcar de Guadiana we found vegetarian meatballs, known as Albondigas, they are usually a mixture of pork and beef and it's quite unusual to find a vegetarian version. These were delicious! 

The village faces Alcoutim across the river. A ferry for foot passengers is available but to get from Sanlúcar to Alcoutim by road it involves a trip of about 70 kilometres (43 mi).

The inhabitants are known as Sanluqueños. The village borders the Guadiana River, which is tidal at this point, but the higher parts of the village rise to an altitude of 149 metres (489 ft).

Back into Portugal after our tapas feasting in Spain! I've been to many megalithic sites, there are pages of them on my website, (Positive Evolution), but I've never been to one that has been moved from its original location, until Xerez!

The Xerez Cromlech is a megalithic complex that is believed to date back to the 4th or 5th millennia BCE. It is situated near the town of Monsaraz in the Évora district of the Alentejo region of Portugal, close to the Spanish border.

The present site of the cromlech is not its original location. Due to the construction of the Alqueva Dam for hydroelectric purposes, which led to the flooding of the original site from 2002, it was transferred from an area that is now under water to its present site close to the Orada Convent. This was the only monument to be moved, with the dam leading to the disappearance of prehistoric engravings and the Roman Castelo da Lousa.

Although it has much in common with megalithic stone circles, the Xerez cromlech is, in fact, square. There has been some dispute about the authenticity of the square layout or even whether it is a cromlech at all. When first discovered, the stones had been widely dispersed due to agricultural work and an initial topographical survey only identified 12 stones that could be part of a cromlech, although the present layout has 55. As the original site is now under water it is unlikely that the dispute will ever be resolved.

The reconstruction of the cromlech was carried out on 24-25 June 2004 to coincide with the summer solstice.

A few minutes walk from the Xerez Cromlech is the Convento da Orada. Now falling into disrepair again it is a magnificent building which makes it all the more a shame that nothing is being done with it.

The foundation of the Convento da Orada dates back to 1670 and was due to the Descalços Agostinhos, who housed it until the beginning of the 19th century. XIX.

Its construction began in 1700, by prior João Calvário, and at the time it remained unfinished until it was finally inaugurated in 1741. The carving that covers the interior of the church, completed in 1755, retains part of its original design of ornaments and plant festoons, architecture and tables.

The Convento da Orada was eventually left until it was nothing more than a ruin. Between 1988 and 1993, the foundation's activity focused almost exclusively on the restoration and rehabilitation of the space itself. With respect for traditional techniques and the layout of the building, the restoration works at the Convento da Orada constituted a true school for the recovery of the heritage, which provided hundreds of undergraduate and Master's students in Architecture with an essential theoretical and practical learning experience in traditional building techniques. The revitalization of the Convento da Orada also included the recovery of all its surroundings.

Will this grand building ever become something again? It would make a wonderful hotel!

Monsaraz is a medieval village in the Alentejo on the border with Spain. It's a place that maintains the magic from ancient times like few others in the world. Made of lime and schist, this place whispers to us, between the echo of our footsteps in its streets. A lot of magnificent stories could be told about its courageous kings, Knights Templar, brave people and dames of strength of character.

Suspended in time, the historic village, one of the oldest in Portugal, is a mandatory destination to add to your list of places to visit in Alentejo. Especially after, in 2017, it won the category “Monument Villages” in the competition 7 Maravilhas de Portugal – Aldeias (7 wonders of Portugal – Villages).

Monsaraz shows signs of having been a fortified settlement during prehistoric times. It has always had strong military and religious influences, impeccably preserving time until these days.

The privileged location of this small village, located on the top of the hill and then with a view over the river Guadiana and the frontier with Spain, made it highly coveted by the peoples which disputed it. Once called Saris or Sarish, Monsaraz was taken from the Muslims by Geraldo Sem Pavor (Fearless Geraldo), in 1167, in a military incursion departing from Evora.

After a later defeat which occurred in Badajoz, Spain, King Afonso Henriques again lost control of Monsaraz to the Moors. However, in 1232, King Sancho II recovered it once and for all. With the help and support of the Templars, to whom he finally donates the beautiful Alentejo village. The marks left by the Templar Order, later Order of Christ, still live among the castle walls.

Monsaraz Castle was built by King Dinis, in the 14th century, it is classified as a National Monument of Portugal. Around 1830, and after its military functions stopped, the old Praça de Armas (formation ground) of the castle started to be used as some sort of bullfighting ring. Today, it serves this purpose mainly during the anual festivities in honour of Nosso Senhor Jesus dos Passos (our Lord Jesus Christ).

Monsaraz Castle is a unique touristic spot in Portugal. It is one of the most splendid places to look at the wonderful Alqueva Dam. This is the largest artificial lake in Europe and one of the greatest Portuguese constructions of the century. A special place where you can even rent a houseboat and cruise the waters (no license required).

Novelty attractions like the “world’s largest tree” or the “world’s biggest ball of twine” can be a magnet for tourists. Not so with the “World’s Shortest International Bridge,” a small footbridge that measures just 3.2 meters in length and crosses the Portuguese-Spanish border.

The bridge connects the Portuguese village of Várzea Grande in the Alentejo with the neighbouring Spanish village of El Marco in Extremadura. As with much of the border areas there is a language spoken here known as Portuñol. As this has developed in different areas independently it is not one language. There are also versions along the Brazilian border.

The border here has never really separated the two villages. When there was still border checks between the two countries locals from either side crossed the river on a makeshift bridge made from planks. Smuggling between the two countries was common: the Portuguese sold the Spanish coffee and towels while the Spanish sold knives and wine in return. 

A quick Google search reveals that there are several other bridges (or bridge owners) claiming to be the world’s shortest international bridge. Despite their claims none are actually as short as this one!

Our last stop in Spain was really just to eat some more tapas! There was a free aire next to the bullring and we didn't actually go very far before we found a bar and had a snack!

From the 16th to the 18th century Valencia de Alcántara was a celebrated border fortress; it was captured by the Portuguese in 1664 and 1698.

The Battle of Valencia de Alcántara took place in 1762 as part of the Spanish invasion of Portugal. Portuguese-British troops under John Burgoyne attacked and captured the town, which was a Spanish supply base, setting back the invasion and contributing to the British victory that year.

The beginning of the nineteenth century, traditionally associated with the beginnings of the modern age, is particularly troublesome in the case of Valencia de Alcántara as it was caught up in two important conflicts, including the fleeting conflict known as the War of the Oranges (1801) or the War of Independence. However, due to its location it became the second most important custom house for direct traffic between the two kingdoms, after Badajoz, and had a flourishing trade in farm produce of all kinds.

I had visited the amazing hill top village & castle of Marvão in 2011, but Frank had never been. This was definitely one of the highlights of our trip. There is a free aire for campervans where overnight is allowed, no services & it's not very level but nice to be able to stay here!

Perched on a quartzite crag of the Serra de São Mamede, Marvão's name is derived from an 8th-century Muwallad rebel, named Ibn Marwan. Ibn Marwan, who constructed the Castle of Marvão, likely on the site of an earlier Roman watchtower, as a power base when establishing an independent statelet ("emirate", duchy), covering much of modern-day Portugal, during the Emirate of Cordoba (884-931 CE). The castle & walled village were further fortified through the centuries, notably under Sancho II of Portugal (13th century) & Denis of Portugal.

The village has generated significant tourist interest in recent years. It was included in the #1 New York Times bestselling book, 1000 Places to see Before you Die. Nobel Prize-winning author José Saramago wrote of the village, "From Marvão one can see the entire land ... It is understandable that from this place, high up in the keep at Marvão Castle, visitors may respectfully murmur, 'How great is the world'."

In the 1950s, author Huldine V. Beamish wrote of Marvão, "There is an atmosphere about the district (of Marvão) that is very ancient. At times you have the same peculiar feelings as those evoked by Stonehenge & that amazing druid monument at Callernish in the Isle of Lewis. Picking your way along the steep stony pathways, you would not be at all surprised to meet a Phoenician trader or Roman Soldier. It would be the most natural thing in the world."

An annual international classical music festival, under the artistic direction of German conductor Christoph Poppen, was launched in Marvão in July 2014. The village also hosts an international film festival, Periferías, in August each year. Other annual festivals in Marvão include 'Al-Mossassa'- a celebration of the town's Moorish past, held jointly with the Spanish city of Badajoz (also founded by Ibn Marwan), in early October, & a major Chestnut Festival in early November.

The Castle of Marvão is a well-preserved medieval castle at one end of the village. It's €3 to look around & well worth it!

The construction of the castle at Marvão was attributed to 9th century Islamic knight, Ibn Marwan, who began to dwell in the castle between 876 & 877. By the beginning of the 10th century, the settlement was designated Amaia de Ibn Maruán or, alternately, the fortress of Amaia. Christian forces loyal to King D. Afonso I (1112–1185) conquered the region & town from Moorish forces sometime between 1160 and 1166.

With the demarcation of Castelo Branco in 1214, Marvão was already included within Portuguese territory. The first foral (charter) was issued in 1226 by King D. Sancho II (1223–1248), done to ensure the development of the unpopulated outpost, against repeated attacks from the Kingdom of Castile.

There is plenty more history to read on Wikipedia about the castle if you are interested!

In 1938, the DGMEN (Directorate General for Buildings and National Monuments) began working on repairing the walls, staircases and battlements. In proceeding years until the present day, there were other projects to improve the condition of the castle.

One of my favourite parts of the castle was the huge rain-collecting cistern, used to supply water to both the keep and wider castle in the event of siege. The rectangular cistern includes a vaulted ceiling supported by ten stone ribs. Rainwater was collected in a reservoir above the vault and channeled to the interior of the cistern by three openings, which are covered today. Water also collected through another access in the northwest.

We then started heading inland back home, that will be the next post!

Thanks for looking :) xxx